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Tokyo Narrative

Apr. 26th, 2026 09:48 pm
l33tminion: Mind the gap (Train)
[personal profile] l33tminion
On Friday, we started the day with breakfast at Yoshinoya, then took a day trip to Hakone. Took the main loop on the Hakone Free Pass in the opposite direction of previous trips. The transit in the region is part of the attraction: There's a mountainous local train route with several switchbacks, a cable-car funicular, and a ropeway gondola up to the sulphurous hot-springs at Owakudani. We stopped there to eat some kuro tamago (hot-spring boiled eggs whose shells are turned black by the sulphurous water) and egg-flavored soft-serve and briefly stopped at the geology museum there. Then we took the ropeway on to a boat cruise across Lake Ashi, with some beautiful views of Mt. Fuji along the way. Then we returned via a very winding bus ride through the mountains, making an early stop at Amazake Chaya, a historic teahouse, for amazake (a sweet drink that is the pre-ferment for sake) and snacks. We took the local train to Odawara for dinner, and ate at Enji, which was amazing. Apparently the chef was a former Michelin honoree. The food was really tasty and creative, and they were so nice. Afterwards, we dozed on the express train back to Tokyo and somehow dragged ourselves back to the hotel.

Saturday, we had a pancake breakfast at Bills in Ginza. That restaurant has incredibly fluffy ricotta pancakes. Later in the morning, we went to Omotesando and got pastries at Amam Dacotan, a bakery I'd wanted to visit on this trip. Afterwards, we met up with Greg and Valerie, cousins we'd met at the Greenberg family reunion earlier this year (my dad's mom's branch of the family tree) who recently moved to Tokyo. Greg is the brewmaster at the brand new Ogawa Coffee Laboratory TAP : 020 at NEWoMan Mimure, a really cool food hall at Tanakawa Gateway City. (There's a small aquaponics lab. The bakery there cultivates wild yeast and mills some of their own flour.) Greg and Valerie moved to Japan recently so Greg could be the brewery's founder. They treated us to lunch and we got to taste his fantastic beer. That area features some amazing architectural design and beautiful public spaces. There's a culture museum (MoN: The Museum of Narratives), a lounge space where the tables are arranged in a gradient by size, and a roof garden with a hot and cold foot bath, the hot side heated by underlying geothermal. Afterwards we did some sightseeing in Shibuya and Yoyogi park, before a sushi dinner in Harajuku. Erica argued that if we didn't have another sushi dinner, she'd feel the trip was incomplete.

On Sunday, we did a bit more last-minute sightseeing in Akihabara and Harajuku. I intended to leave enough time for the connection from the hotel to the Narita Express to be relaxing, but accounted for only the distance to, not the confusion of, Tokyo station. Erica found this stressful. Nonetheless, made it to the platform with a few minutes to spare. My host parents came to the airport to see us off, which was very nice.

The trip home went very smoothly. Will see how we feel when we need to be awake tomorrow morning.

Family Time in Tokyo

Apr. 24th, 2026 05:56 am
l33tminion: Ichi tasu ichi wa? (Smile)
[personal profile] l33tminion
On Wednesday, we took the bullet train to Tokyo. Erica helped choose the afternoon activity, so we ended up going to Capyneko, a cat and capybara cafe in Harajuku. Beforehand, we had a snack of some very elaborate shaved ice (kakegouri) at PAP Coffee.

For dinner, we went to Denny's, which is mostly notable for the trivia that it's an entirely different restaurant chain licensing the Denny's branding. It's a good time, though, and "family restaurant" is a thing for a reason.

On Thursday, we went to visit my host parents, Kyoko and Isamu, in Shisui. Was really lovely catching up (making the most of my somewhat faded and not that strong in the first place Japanese language skills), and I'm so glad Erica had the chance to meet them in person. They took us out to a really nice lunch nearby.

On the way back, we stopped at Tokyo Skytree Town. Erica didn't want to check out the observation deck of the Skytree itself, the view from the floor 30 lounge in Skytree Town was high enough. The lower floors of the mall there had a lot of pop culture focused shops, among other things. Erica was very excited about the Pokemon Center and we had dinner at the Kirby Cafe, which was definitely very cute.

Search maintenance

Apr. 22nd, 2026 09:19 am
mark: A photo of Mark kneeling on top of the Taal Volcano in the Philippines. It was a long hike. (Default)
[staff profile] mark posting in [site community profile] dw_maintenance

Happy Wednesday!

I'm taking search offline sometime today to upgrade the server to a new instance type. It should be down for a day or so -- sorry for the inconvenience. If you're curious, the existing search machine is over 10 years old and was starting to accumulate a decade of cruft...!

Also, apparently these older machines cost more than twice what the newer ones cost, on top of being slower. Trying to save a bit of maintenance and cost, and hopefully a Wednesday is okay!

Edited: The other cool thing is that this also means that the search index will be effectively realtime afterwards... no more waiting a few minutes for the indexer to catch new content.

Let's Go! (to Japan)

Apr. 21st, 2026 09:21 pm
l33tminion: (Junpei)
[personal profile] l33tminion
The biggest of travel plans has arrived.

The long flight from Boston was managed, though we got to Osaka on almost no sleep. Direct flight from Boston went well, though it's a long journey. The connection in Narita was interesting, the domestic terminal has only a few vending machines past security and you take a bus from the gate to the plane on the tarmac. It makes Narita feel like a small regional airport stapled to a major international hub.

Arranged for an airport pickup, though missed our driver in a surprisingly chaotic crowd in the airport arrivals lobby. Got that straightened out despite some struggles with the international roaming on my cell phone plan. (Which took a call to T-Mobile support later to get straightened out.)

And then we were up in middle of the night despite being on about three hours of sleep in the last 36. The sound approach is to just close your eyes and just wait in darkness or silence for four hours straight. Good luck getting a kid to do that, so we took a different approach, a little thing I like to call "jetlagmaxxing", and went to the combini at 3AM for a snack instead.

Our first real day of the trip was spent at Universal Japan. It does seem a certain amount of silly to go that far for a theme park, but it was pretty good for a first-day activity. And we were all (somewhat shockingly) feeling awake and full-energy all day until Erica crashed to zero abruptly just before dinner around 6. Erica was mostly not in the mood for roller coasters, which made me disinclined to spend time waiting for those. And she wanted to spend a lot of time in the Wonderland corner of the park (which has Peanuts, Hello Kitty, and Sesame Street characters and most of the little kid rides). I still had a lot of fun with the calmer rides, treats, and all the details of the theming. Super Nintendo World was absolutely amazing, though. We all exclaimed aloud when we stepped out into the main area, it was really a beautifully realized setting, nostalgic and lively and fun. Donkey Kong: Minecart Madness (Erica's one roller coaster of the day) was top-notch in my book and my favorite bit of the day.

Today, we went to see the deer in Nara Park. They're cute, and we were no exception to everyone wanting to feed the deer, but they will mug you for a deer cracker if you have one (or look like you have maybe thought about having one at some point). Their nipping isn't as aggressive as possible, but nip they do, and some of them would clearly consider taking your crackers at gunpoint but for the lack of guns (and thumbs).

Before heading to the Kasuga-Taisha shrine, we had steamed kakinohazushi (sushi wrapped in persimmon leaves) at Izasa-Nakatani-hompo Yumekaze-hiroba.

Kasuga-Taisha was amazing. I imagine if you're actually Shinto it hits unfathomably hard, but it's definitely an awesome and uncanny place: The monumental lanterns and thousand-year-old trees and wildlife that seems to grow increasingly pious as you approach the shrine. I got insufficient cash from the cash machine this morning and we almost didn't get to see the shrine interior as a result (Erica would not have wanted to make the climb again after backtracking). But we were bailed out by a friendly pair of tourists who spotted us admission when I asked if they could exchange some yen for USD or payment via Venmo or similar. Turns out they were from the other (i.e. the original) Cambridge. Sorry for not catching your names, you're the best, that really made our day.

For the other main attraction of the day, we went to Osaka Castle, which had an interesting museum and fascinating scenery. Afterwards, we went to Osaka Shinsekai and had supper at Jarinko, a very friendly and beautiful little izakaya. They made their own plum wine in-house, fermenting it on the side counter in large jugs. The appetizers were delicious. Got through with dinner just on time to see the whole neighborhood lit up for the night on our way to the train.

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Ian

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